How to get trumpet gunk out of your shirt

I did it.

I’ve ignored the puddle in the back of my fridge long enough for it to become one with the shelf. I pull clothes straight out of the dryer to wear instead of folding them on a daily basis. I don’t keep up with the dog fur tumbleweeds, either. With this one thing, though? I am a triumphant domestic goddess.

I’ve got this new-to-me white cotton blouse – great fit, clean lines, nice sleeve detail. It’s an excellent gig shirt. Of course, I ruined it within two hours. After holding my trumpet in my lap, the front was speckled with greenish black trumpet gunk ringed with yellowish valve oil, and it was not a good look. (Yes, I know it’s time for a trumpet bath. Cut me some slack.) It took some trial and error, but the shirt looks brand new again.

Disclaimer: I am a music teacher, not a laundry guru. Fiber content and fabric dyes vary, so test this stuff on an inconspicuous area if you’re worried about causing even further damage. The way I see it, though, if your shirt stains are as nasty as mine were, there’s nowhere to go but up.

Trumpet gunk stains are more complicated than your average oil stain. They contain at least three different substances (gross) and they’re often more than one color. 

Fresh stains are easier to remove than old, dried ones. Treat it ASAP, and don’t put it in the dryer until you’re sure the stain is history. Dryer heat makes spots extra stubborn. If the stain is already baked in, an enzyme-based cleaner can reverse the damage. You might have some on hand if you have pets. 

If you’re out playing or teaching when you notice the spot, powder is your first line of defense. It absorbs oil, making it easier to remove later. Baby powder, baking soda, cornstarch, and chalk are all options. I usually carry extra deodorant powder and a powdered dry shampoo in my purse, but a stick of chalk is easier to tuck away in a gig bag.

Pre-treat the stain. If you don’t keep a dedicated spot treatment on hand, use dish detergent, which contains surfactants to break up stains. If you run a low-waste hippie household like I do, an oil-based soap like castile soap works. Bear in mind that it doesn’t behave the same way as a detergent, and if you have hard water, you could end up with yet another film to remove. Put some cardboard or cloth under the stain to avoid spreading it, then rub in the pre-treatment solution of your choice with your fingers, a cloth, or a clean toothbrush. Let it sit for a few minutes, then toss it in the wash.

Laundry boosters like Oxiclean, Borax, or washing soda can be added to the machine. You can dissolve any of these in some water and use it as a pre-treatment soak, too. You might need to repeat the cycle a few times. Warm or hot water will break up oils better than cold, but check the tag for care instructions. If you have to wash it cold, it’ll be fine. It’ll just take longer. Check after each wash, and again, don’t put it in the dryer. 

After two wash cycles, I was left with some faint, slightly discolored spots. I splashed them with a little hydrogen peroxide and let the shirt air-dry in the sun. This removed the last of the stains. On clothes that aren’t pure white, test this one – dip a cotton swab in some peroxide and rub it on a hidden spot first. If the swab picks up the dye, skip it. Sunlight decomposes hydrogen peroxide into oxygen and water (which is why it’s stored in dark bottles), so there’s need to rinse!